While Austria will forever be revered by wine professionals for its spectacular, terroir-driven white wines, red wine production has progressively improved over the years, highlighting the versatility and dynamic nature of Austrian wine.
This post will explore Austria's most prominent red grape variety, Zweigelt, responsible for nearly 14% of Austria's total wine output and covering 6,400+ hectares under vine.
Zweigelt, also referred to as Blauer Zweigelt, Zweigeltrebe, or Rotburger, is a 20th century Austrian creation, one that has become fairly widespread in terms of vineyard plantings throughout the various growing regions.
Austrian Wine Map courtesy of Austrian Wine
Since the grape's inception, it has been propagated from the Weinviertel and the Kremstal all the way to the Burgenland and Thermenregion, where the grapes really thrive due to the warmer, Pannonian climate.
Grüner Veltliner is the most dominant planted grape variety in Austria, comprising over one third of the country's total wine production. In this post, we'll explore how terroir affects Grüner Veltliner, specifically in three major producing regions : The Weinviertel, the Kamptal, and the Wachau, to better understand how contrasting regions can produce varying styles from the same grape variety.
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Austria is known throughout the world as a relatively small, albeit high quality wine producing country, focusing on varieties that are both appropriate for their particular growing conditions and integral to their viticultural traditions.
The next series of blog posts will focus on the reasons behind why certain grape varieties taste different when grown in varying Austrian regions. Essentially, we’ll be examining how this perplexing combination of history, geology, geography, and vineyard management can effectively change the flavor/aroma profiles and structures of the same grape variety.
Austria and Terroir
I’ve been lucky enough to have picked Grüner Veltliner grapes off the vine, sipped on tank samples that had yet to begin their fermentation process, and had the immense honor of trying decades old archived bottles direct from the winery’s cellars, both in the Czech Republic and Austria. The variety is one of my favorites, and I'm thrilled to have the opportunity to shine a spotlight on it here. Sounds pretty Gru-Vee, right? Let’s get started.
Grüner Veltliner comprises the majority of Austrian vineyard plantings, as it is the country's most dominant grape variety planted under vine. This post will highlight how the location and vineyard management can impact the wine's end result.
Certainly, the list of regions producing excellent Grüner Veltliner is exhaustive, so I'm going to instead hit the specific talking points. For more detailed statistics and information, I highly recommend reading more on Austrian Wine, a valuable resource for all wine lovers and professionals.
Topographical map of Weinvertel DAC - Courtesy of Austrian Wine
The Weinviertel is the most north-easterly wine producing region in Austria, where Grüner Veltliner spans over 6,700 hectares out of the total 13,800+ hectares planted to vine. The region was the first to obtain formal DAC status in 2003 (with the 2002 being their inaugural vintage). The only permitted variety in the DAC is Grüner Veltliner, so they are true specialists of the variety.
According to Austrian Wine, the Weinviertel is better understood when split into three unofficial subregions, the western most half, home to Retz and Röschitz, the northeast, home to Staaz, Falkenstein, and Poysdorf, and the southeast, home to Mannersdorf and Auersthal.
In this region, Grüner Veltliner is indisputably the king of grapes, and often carries a signature peppery tone, layered on top of fresh orchard fruits and hints of vegetal undertones. Weinviertel DAC wines must have a minimum of 12% alcohol, while the Weinviertel DAC Reserve wines have a minimum of 13% alcohol.
Interestingly, both DAC and Reserve level wines must contain less than 6 g/L of residual sugar. Essentially, this means that every Grüner Veltliner bearing the DAC status will be dry and fairly fruit-forward, with apparent mineral tones and hints of cracked white pepper.
From my personal experience, the Weinviertel DAC Grüner Veltliner tends to be leaner, both in body and alcohol, with an angular acidity and intense mineral tones. The wines tend to show off more orchard and stone fruits, like pears and apricots, but are rarely overtly fruity.
Whereas the Weinviertel DAC wines are typically unoaked, and are instead matured in steel and cannot contain any grapes affected by botrytis, the Weinviertel DAC Reserve wines may be matured in oak, and can contain subtle notes of botrytis.
As a Czech expat living in South Moravia, Czech Republic, from 2018-2021, I lived just a stone’s throw from the Weinviertel, and was lucky enough to have guided tours of multiple villages in the region, including Poysdorf, Falkenstein, and Stetten, amongst others. If you ever are planning a trip, I recommend heading to the Weinviertel DAC website to their 'Visiting Weinviertel' page, which suggests accommodations, tours, and other activities that can be of interest.
The above photo, Ried Heiligenstein, is in fact a single vineyard parcel that sits atop a 270 million year-old Permian desert sandstone, with volcanic elements atop the hill. According to Austrian Wine, the climate here is hot and dry, leading to a very unique macroclimate, ultimately boasting wines with finesse and structure.
One of the defining characteristics of the Kamptal is its subsoil, remnants of the ancient Paratethys sea that helped form the landscape millions of years ago, leaving behind a mix of acidic crystalline rock, conglomerates, sandstone, shale clay, and others.
In addition, the warming Pannonian winds from the east meet the cooler winds coming in from the north, leading to a vast diurnal variation, unique to Kamptal. Similar to the extreme diurnal variations here in Tucson, how we see temperatures soar during the day and dip down in the evenings, Austria also is subject to these temperature variances.
And while Austria will never get nearly as hot as Arizona, the temperature shifts allow the grapes to hang on the vine a bit longer, leading to a remarkable freshness and vibrancy in the wines.
Receiving DAC status in 2009, both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are permitted grape varieties in the Kamptal DAC. The wines can range in alcohol from 11.5% for the village level wines, to 13% for the Kamptal DAC Reserve. In the same way the Weinviertel separates botrytis/oak between their DAC and Reserve bottlings, the Kamptal works the same, with Reserve bottlings permitted to have subtle hints of botrytis and oak.
We are fortunate to carry wines from Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg, a Cistercien monastery nestled in the village of Gobelsburg within the Kamptal region, that has been in operation for over 850 years. Here we see how Austrian wines are both affordable and offer exemplary quality.
From my experience, Grüner Veltliner from the Kamptal tends to boast mouth watering acidity, with less angularity than that of the Weinviertel. The wines appear more broad and textured on the palate, almost oily, with viscosity and density.
Mineral tones tend to be more dominant, and the fruit may be the secondary player, making the wines extremely food friendly, particularly for hard-to-pair dishes like asparagus and artichokes.
For more information on the Kamptal DAC, winery members, accommodation suggestions, heuriger information, and other relevant details, I recommend heading to the Kamptal DAC website, a valuable resource if you're headed to tour the region.
The Wachau may be one of the most sought after regions in Austria for wine, for a number of reasons. Spanning nearly 1,400 hectares under vine, the area is a World Cultural Heritage site, one that has been shaped over millions of years by the river Danube, which snakes its way through the rugged terroir. This area is home to powerful, compelling Grüner Veltliner, amongst other varieties, like Pinot Blanc, Riesling, and Chardonnay.
While this iconic Austrian wine region is now home to some of the most elegant, premier styles of white wines throughout all of Austria, it wasn't always the case. In 1983, after struggling to prove their credibility and consistency on the world stage, the Wachau gathered its top producers, and introduced the Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus, a strict member based organization whose mission became protecting the integrity and production quality of Wachau wines.
Today, the association is comprised of over 200 members that are committed to producing low intervention, terroir-driven wines that reflect the prowess of the Wachau. Membership is voluntary, but rigid, with a strict, meticulous rule book.
Wachau : photo credit : Austrian Wine / Herbert Lehmann
In terms of vineyard management, the Wachau can appear perilous, with imposing stone wall terraces that were carved into the bedrock by Bavarian monasteries in the Middle Ages. Today, the terraces are surrounded by three million square meters of stone, none of which are forged together by mortar or cement, but simply stacked one on top of another, protecting the vineyards from the gusty winds of the Danube.
The subsoils take their origin from the ancient sea, mentioned earlier, and are a mix of solid gneiss, amphibolite, and loess, the latter being the most important soil type for high quality Grüner Veltliner production.
Overall, the Grüner Veltliner from the Wachau will present itself as a contrast to those from the Weinviertel or the Kamptal, exhibiting racy acidity, robust textures, intense mineral and vegetal tones, and a waxy, weighty mouthfeel. These are the powerhouses of Austria, boasting concentration and phenolics while maintaining a vigor and freshness that only the Wachau can claim as their own.
Grüner Veltliner from the Wachau is categorized in three tiers, mainly dependent on the ripeness of the grapes at harvest and their resulting must weight.
Below, I'll briefly explain the three major Vinea Wachau classifications.
Steinfeder (translates to Stone Feather) is the lightest and brightest of the Wachau classification, and will typically have alcohol levels hovering around 11%. These will be the most approachable in their youth, offering crisp, high toned, fruity whites with bright acidity and no apparent oak.
Federspiel (translates to Feather Play) bears its ancient name due to the region's history of falconry, a popular sport in the Wachau. These wines will have alcohol levels between 11.5% - 12.5%, should exhibit no apparent new oak, and offer a bit more weight and texture than the Steinfeder wines.
Smaragd (translates to emerald) bears its name from the green lizards that are native to the Wachau vineyards. Smaragd wines are produced from the later harvested grapes, thus resulting in wines with superb dimension, rounded textures, and slightly elevated alcohol levels, with a minimum ABV of 12.5%. These are wines that are destined for the cellar, and should be enjoyed 10-15 years after release (or longer, depending on your level of patience!)
If you are looking for a wine to pair with that hearty fish dish, fried pork tenderloins, or creamy pasta dishes, look no further than a Wachau Grüner Veltliner Smaragd. They are truly something remarkable.
We hope that this post clarified some of the key talking points surrounding Grüner Veltliner, and perhaps inspired you to seek out a bottle from our collection! There is truly a Grüner Veltliner for every palate, so now it's up to you to find the one best for you, here at Time Market!
The Austrian wine world is a literal playground for us foodies here in Tucson. There are seemingly countless styles and varieties to select from, and with every Austrian state boasting a unique terroir expression, each variety takes on its own personality and flavor profile.
We love how food friendly these wines can be, and in this post will offer some suggestions to pair with our classic dishes here at Time Market, featuring our new rotation of Austrian wines by the glass.
Austrian wines range from mineral-driven bone dry whites, to playful and fruity rosé wines, to structured, elegant reds. The country even produces traditional method sparkling wines and lusciously sweet dessert wines, most of which never make it out of the country. In total, there are 40 registered grape varieties in Austria (26 white and 14 red), a staggering number for such a relatively small wine producing country, amplifying the fact that Austria’s versatility in wine is paramount.
The signature of Austrian wine is its unrelenting acidity, acting as the perfect accompaniment to a meal. Thanks to the country’s cool climate growing regions, the wines demonstrate an electric energy, vigor, freshness, and vibrancy, with perfumed aromatics and length.
A basic takeaway regarding Austrian wine is to remember that no two regions are alike. Each grape variety expresses itself differently, depending on where and how it is produced.
Take for example Grüner Veltliner, comparing those from the Weinviertel to those of the Wachau: the former exhibiting a leaner texture, more pronounced fruity aromatics, and zippier acidity, while the latter demonstrating a rounder viscosity, intense mineral tones, and oftentimes, higher alcohol levels.
Now that you’ve got a firm grasp on Austrian wine from our previous posts, let’s talk about how our current wine list can complement your Time Market experience.
This post will re-introduce you to what we’re pouring by the glass, and will also offer some menu suggestion pairings that you can try next time you’re dining-in!
This mineral driven white wine exhibits a focused, bright acidity, balanced by peppery tones that are layered over notes of white peaches and golden apples. Since this wine leans towards a fresh, angular style, we suggest trying it alongside our classic Reuben sandwich. The Grüner’s peppery acidity will cut through the Boar's Head corned beef, house thousand island and Swiss cheese, while simultaneously playing off the acidity in our house made sauerkraut.
Another suggestion is to enjoy a glass alongside our Tonno Capero sandwich, which we serve with our housemade preserved lemon and marinated fennel on our fresh baked baguette. There is truly something magical about pairing lemons with Grüner Veltliner, letting the wine mimic that tangy, citrus pop on the palate.
Rotgipfler is one of those wines that may be hard to pronounce, but is incredibly easy to enjoy. A natural crossing of Traminer and Roter Veltliner, Rotgipfler is an Austrian variety that is a specialty of the Thermenregion.
With just over 100 hectares dedicated to this variety in the entire world, we are fortunate to have the opportunity to try it here in Arizona!
Aromatic, textured, and powerful, this wine should definitely be paired with a dish that matches the wine's weight and bright acidity. Our first suggestion would be our Chicken & Bok Choy Salad, as we feel the crispy fried chicken with five spice, ginger, and sesame seeds would complement the pronounced aromas of lychees, white peaches, and peppery spice.
If you're more in a pizza mood, we would suggest our specialty phig pizza, served with Prosciutto, organic Turkish figs, house ricotta, caramelized onion, arugula, Maldon sea salt, & olive oil.
In our last blog post, we spoke about Austrian red wines and their versatility in terms of food and wine pairings. Zweigelt is a true Austrian creation, a crossing of Blaufränkisch and Sankt Laurent, developed by plant breeder Dr. Fritz Zweigelt in 1922 at the Klosterneuburg Viticultural School.
This Zweigelt is brimming with red forest berries, hints of cocoa and cracked black pepper, with soft tannins and delicate acidity. Thanks to this wine's velvety mouthfeel, we would suggest pairing it up with our classic Margherita pizza, featuring our house made mozzarella cheese.
If you're packing a picnic, we would suggest pairing it with our house BLT, served with Diestel turkey breast, Niman ranch bacon, lettuce, tomato, and mayo, served on our crusty house made levain bread.
Pinot Noir Grapes at harvest
Not only does Austria produce magnificent white wines, but the country also crafts exceptional red wines, offering an exciting glimpse into the country's viticultural future. These are reds that capture a palpable energy, boasting bright acidity, lither textures, and perfumed, fruit-driven aromatics.
And while some of these Austrian grape varieties may seem unfamiliar to our vernacular, we can assure you, the versatility in terms of food and wine pairings offers a dynamic alternative in our wine collection.
Map courtesy of Austrian Wine Marketing Board
Austria is comprised of four generic 'wine states,' or larger regions, Niederösterreich, Burgenland, Steiermark, and Wien, and within those areas, there are eighteen specified wine growing regions.
Map Courtesy of Austrian Wine Marketing Board
Since we're on the subject of red wine, let's talk about where it is primarily grown. Nestled along the Hungarian/Slovak border lies the Burgenland, comprised of 13,100 hectares under vine. This region is the largest producer of high quality red wines in the country, thanks to the formidable climate and warm Pannonian winds coming in from the east.
According to Austrian Wine, Burgenland was formed out of the Styrian and Pannonian Basins, as well as from the Eastern Alpine unit and the Penninicum. This geological formation resulted in varied subsoils and bedrocks, including sedimentary deposits, coarsely grained sandy gravels, dolomite and limestone. Specific DAC's within the Burgenland that are known for their high caliber red wines include Mittelburgenland, Rosalia, Eisenberg, and Leithaburg.
Thermenregion map courtesy of Austrian Wine Marketing Board
In addition to the Burgenland, the Thermenregion is also heralded for their exceptional red wines. Bordering the Burgenland region, the Thermenregion mainly works with local grape varieties like Sankt Laurent, Zweigelt, and Blaufränkisch, as well as French cultivars, like Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
For this blog post, I am going to touch on three important grape varieties, Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, and Sankt Laurent, to paint a picture of the enormous spectrum of red wine produced in Austria.
Zweigelt grapes at Weingut Dürnberg
Named after the plant breeder, Dr. Fritz Zweigelt, this grape variety is 100% Austrian, and is the most commonly planted red grape variety in the country.
The grape itself is a crossing of Sankt Laurent and Blaufränkisch, and was developed in 1922 in a laboratory at the Teaching and Research Centre for Viticulture and Horticulture at the Klosterneuburg wine research department.
According to current statistics provided by Austrian Wine, Zweigelt plantings span the majority of Austrian wine growing regions, accounting for approximately 6,230 hectares under vine (13.9% plantings). Due to the grape’s inherent inclination to ripen mid-harvest, Zweigelt can be picked earlier than the other red grape varieties, an advantage when working in unpredictable, northerly growing climates.
Zweigelt is fairly high yielding, yet with the 20th century shift towards quality over quantity, the wines are trending towards a fuller bodied, richer texture, with a distinctive tart, sour cherry note backed by delicate tones of cocoa and cracked black pepper.
The versatility of Zweigelt is endless, thanks to its flexibility in the cellar. Zweigelt wines can be matured in steel or in oak, the former maintaining a crisper, high toned acidity, while the latter developing a richer, bolder style. Both are equally fascinating, and Zweigelt is often used as a blending partner to other varieties because of its natural acidity and freshness.
When matured in barrique, the wines gain structure, spice, and length, and can be quite remarkable, particularly from the warmer growing regions, like Burgenland, Carnuntum, and the Thermenregion. These are red fruited gems, and pair effortlessly with our artisanal pizza here at Time Market.
Blaufränkisch grapes on the vine
Blaufränkisch has played an enormous role in Austrian viticulture over the centuries. Taking the name Blau (Blue) Fränkisch (Franconia), the grape is of superior heritage, having been widely planted during the Habsburg Empire.
Today, the grape is grown throughout central Europe, where it is referred to by a plethora of synonyms, including Frankovka (Czech Republic), Kékfrankos (Hungary), and Lemberger (Germany/United States.)
While this variety does not necessarily produce wines of intense concentration and extract, like Cabernet Sauvignon wines out of Napa, Blaufränkisch remains at its core an exciting, peppery wine, with notes of dark plums and black cherries, and remains the second most dominant red grape variety under vine in Austria.
Blaufränkisch is a late ripening grape, meaning that the vines begin to sprout flowers later in the season. Due to this factor, frost is a constant risk in the vineyards, particularly in the cooler wine producing regions. Additionally, due to the grape's susceptibility for coulure in cooler growing seasons, Blaufränkisch can be quite challenging to grow successfully, leaving the optimal positioning in warm, sunny, south facing parcels.
Blaufränkisch macerating on skins in an open-top vat
In terms of vinification, cold soak, pre-ferment, open vat macerations are a common winemaking practice, allowing the polyphenols and tannins from the grape skins to boost the wine’s concentration, color, and fruit character.
Currently, there are nearly 2,600 hectares planted to Blaufränkisch, with the majority of plantings in the southeastern regions of Austria, including Burgenland, Thermenregion, Carnuntum, and Mittelburgenland. The warm Pannonian winds coming in from Hungary allow for the vineyards to remain dry and breezy, two vital factors that ensure the ripening of this rather demanding variety.
Due to Blaufränkisch’s high-yielding tendency (sometimes at 100 hl/ha), the larger production bulk wines of the late 20th century had a reputation for producing thinner, more astringent, lean wines.
Yet today, thanks to the ambition and vision of producers in the eastern half of the country, this is no longer the case, with producers like Johannesof Reinisch, Dorli Muhr, Umathum, and Weingut Moric, leading the pack on quality. These wines can be utterly fascinating, with depth, dark fruited notes, peppery spice, and firmly structured tannins, making them the ideal pairing to a tender filet, roast duck, grilled lamb skewers, or beef dumplings.
Taking its name from St. Lawrence Day, the day when the Sankt Laurent grapes begin to ripen, this grape is native to Central Europe and spans just 621 hectares under vine, comprising just 1.4% of total Austrian vineyard plantings.
While this variety can produce silky, ethereal red wines, the grape is tremendously difficult to cultivate, as it is susceptible to fungus, mildew, and is sensitive to late frosts, producing unpredictable yields. Additionally, the grape is also susceptible to early flowering, a tremendous danger when speaking of spring frosts, an all too common occurrence in Austria.
All that being said, Sankt Laurent wines can be transformative, particularly those matured in barrique and grown in the southerly wine producing regions. These wines exhibit deeply hued tones of magenta/ruby, boasting notes of morello cherries, cocoa, and baking spice.
These are never opulent wines that garner high alcohol or extract, but instead demonstrate a tense, nervy acidity layered on top of a medium bodied mouthfeel, often finishing with fine grained tannins.
Meinklang Roter Mulatschak : Sankt Laurent/Zweigelt cuvée
Interestingly, we are seeing more Sankt Laurent produced as Pét-Nat, or Pétillant Naturel styles, like in the above photo of Meinklang's Roter Mulatschak. These wines capture the grape's signature high acidity and freshness, offering a delicious, lower alcohol option. This trending shift towards a minimal intervention, brighter style is catapulting the success of Sankt Laurent internationally.
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To put it simply, Austria is heralded for its high quality, white wine production.
With over 46,000 hectares (113,000+ acres) dedicated to vineyards, the country boasts 26 registered white grape varieties, all distinct and unique in their own right. This first blog post will explore three dominant white grape varieties in Austria and their key identifying characteristics.
The following blog post will cover the three dominant red grape varieties, so stay tuned red wine lovers, we've got more info headed your way!
Now, some of you may already be familiar with these delicious Austrian white wine varieties! Perhaps you’ve already enjoyed a bottle or sampled one on our wine list here at Time Market!
For those of you who may be unfamiliar with these foreign names and wines, that is why we are here- to guide you through the enormous range of Austrian wines available at Time Market in Tucson, Arizona!
Austria is considered a northerly wine growing country, located near the 49th parallel. Producing over 2.5 million hL/year, the country benefits from 'cool climate' vineyard and soil conditions, leading to a plethora of aromatic grape varieties under vine. Austria is landlocked, with the famed Danube river snaking its way through the hilly landscape.
As previously mentioned, white wine production dominates in Austria, comprising just over two thirds of the overall wine production. Thanks to their phenomenal balance between extract and acidity, these Austrian wines are rocking global consumer markets, introducing a new wave of customers to the breadth of Austria’s fascinating and historic production.
The main takeaway with Austrian wine is that the 20th century shift to quality over quantity has cemented Austria as a prime country for high caliber white, sparkling, rosé, red, and dessert wines.
But first, let's explore the white wines of Austria.
Grüner Veltliner grapes at Weingut Taubenschuss
Grüner Veltliner- Considered by many wine professionals to be the Austrian superstar, Grüner Veltliner was, in fact, the catalyst to Austria’s massive worldwide export success. A mid-ripening grape indigenous to central Europe, Grüner has the capacity of producing expansive, complex wines that harness a succinct minerality, an intriguing white pepper spice and vegetal components, and an extraordinary aging potential.
Comprising one third of total vineyard plantings (14,000+ ha under vine) spanning five different DAC’s (Districtus Austriae Controllatus - tr: Controlled Districts of Austrian Origin), Grüner Veltliner is the dominant white grape variety under vine throughout the country.
Colloquially known in US wine circles as Gru-Vee, this grape has been revered by Master Sommeliers, Masters of Wine, wine critics, and those in the wine trade for decades. Most recently, in 2002, Gruner Veltliner surpassed top Burgundy Chardonnay during a tasting in London, astonishing the public and the Sommeliers responsible for evaluating the wines. Acclaimed MW Jancis Robinson wrote about the London competition here.
Grüner Veltliner is unique because the grape contains a chemical compound called Rotundone that exhibits a signature, peppery flavor. While peppery notes are often found in wines as a result of fermentation, this particular descriptor can be found directly in the grape variety, even when plucked directly off the vine, becoming more pronounced after vinification. Fun fact- this key chemical compound Rotundone is also found in Syrah, particularly from those produced in the Rhône Valley of France.
Thanks to its naturally high acidity, Grüner can be considered a chameleon- being crafted into crisp, dry Sekt (sparkling) wines to powerfully aromatic, structured, full-bodied whites.
On the vine, the health and quality of the grapes vary depending on where they are grown within Austria's subregions. The grapes are fairly small, with a greenish-yellow hue and delicate brown spotting. Benefitting from the warm Pannonian breezes coming in from the west, Grüner is most at home when planted on deep loess soils that are nestled mid-slope, adjacent to the Danube River.
Grüner Veltliner can pair effortlessly with traditional Austrian dishes, like schnitzel, tafelspitz, and warm, vinegar based potato salad, but can also be paired with more global cuisine, like braised chicken thighs, roasted pork tenderloins, or a meatier fish. Pro tip- If you’re shopping at Time Market, head to our frozen meat refrigerator, where you can find our house-made Bratwursts - the true ‘perfect pairing.’
Welschriesling grapes at Plenér Winery in Pavlov, CZ
Welschriesling- While the grape makes up approximately 8% of vineyard plantings in Austria, and single varietal Welschriesling wines are rarely imported here to Arizona, it is a grape worthy of attention.
Overall, it is planted on nearly 4,000 hectares (9,000 acres) in Austria, nearly double the amount of Riesling plantings in the country. Plus, it is one of Arielle’s favorite varieties from her time in the Czech Republic, where it takes the name ‘Ryzlink Vlašský,’ and is widely planted throughout the southern Moravian wine region.
While completely unrelated to traditional ‘Rhine’ Riesling, Welschriesling is native to central Europe, and is grown throughout all five main growing regions in Austria. The grape prefers to be grown on limestone, or warmer soils, and is best suited to dry climates.
Historically, the grape was introduced from abroad to German-speaking countries, under the pretense that it was a variety related to Riesling. This is entirely false, and I’ll explain why!
‘Welsch’ actually means ‘foreigner,’ hence the name ‘Foreigner Riesling,’ and the name just stuck over the centuries. In Croatia, the grape goes by ‘Graševina,’ in Hungary, ‘Olasz Rizling,’ and in Italy, the grape is known as ‘Riesling Italico.’ Despite these Riesling references, the grape bears absolutely no DNA correlation to Rhine Riesling (the Riesling we all know and love from Germany), and is sipmly a linguistic error that has been cemented into our wine vocabulary.
Welschriesling quality can vary, and is quite dependent on the yield, vineyard location, soil, and situation in the vineyards. The grape is susceptible to botrytis, or noble rot, a fungus that desiccates grapes by piercing their skin, drawing out the water, and permitting a soft gray mold that grows on the grape’s exterior.
Botrytis affected Welschriesling grapes at Plenér Winery in Pavlov, CZ
Famously grown near the Neusiedlersee lake, the humid, moist air in the mornings and dry, sunny afternoons encourage the growth of noble rot (botrytis), leading to lusciously sweet dessert wines, often labeled as Auslese (late harvest) BA (Beerenauslese=selection of berries) or TBA (Trockenbeerenauslese=selection of dried berries). While these wines have sugar levels that often peak 100 g/L, the wines maintain a remarkable backbone of acidity, balancing extract with acidity and freshness.
When vinified in smaller batch productions as a dry, still white, Welschriesling boasts fragrant notes of yellow nectarines & apricots, maintaining a signature acidity that offsets the mouth coating, fleshier texture. The wines rarely see oak maturation, and are typically vinified in neutral vessels, like older oak, stainless steel, concrete, or even amphora.
Consumer trends are shifting, and due to the seemingly exponential demand for skin-macerated, or orange wines, Welschriesling is currently experiencing a renaissance, with more and more plantings sprouting up throughout Austria.
Riesling grapes at Gurdau winery, Hustopeče, CZ
Riesling - Although Riesling is not nearly as widely planted as in nearby Germany, it is nevertheless an important variety for specific regions in Austria, particularly in the Wachau, Kamptal, and Kremstal.
Austrian Riesling is a far cry from German Riesling, and should be thought of as an independent style. In contrast with the German style of Riesling, that tend to gravitate towards higher residual sugar levels, Austria specializes in crafting dry, fuller bodied styles, highlighting a signature acidity that reverberates on the palate.
Perhaps Riesling is the most misunderstood of the white grape varieties, but we are here to change that! Unfortunately, due to the influx of cloyingly sweet Riesling that bled into US markets in the late 20th century, Riesling became ‘too sweet’ for many consumers. Yet in and of itself, Riesling can be magnificently dry, particularly with low residual sugar levels, like in those examples from Austria.
Riesling is a mid to late-ripening, winter hearty grape variety that offers a powerful, aromatic bouquet, lean texture, and mouth watering acidity. In Austria, Riesling covers just under 2,000 hectares (4,600+ acres), and these plantings are primarily found in the Weinviertel, Wachau, Kamptal, and Kremstal.
Burgenland, near the city of Rust, also produces Riesling, yet those are indeed sweet, and are included in the botrytized, dessert wine category.
In Austria, Riesling takes on its own unique persona- fuller bodied, slightly spicy, with intense mineral tones. These wines are most commonly dry, with very little residual sugar, and boasts notes of apricots, nectarines, yellow apples, and, in some circumstances, can develop petrol tones with age.
But the one thing Riesling should be remembered for is it's acidity- making it the perfect pairing for creamy, fatty dishes, like roast pork, schnitzel, or one of our favorite pairings, käsespätzle (cheese noodles).
If you’ve only heard that Riesling is sweet, perhaps pick up a bottle of dry Austrian Riesling at Time Market, and see what all the hype is about!
Stay tuned for information on wine specials at the bar, in-store tasting events, educational content, wine tasting videos, online seminars, and more!
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Map courtesy of Wine Folly
Since the inception of Time Market in 1995, we have set ourselves apart by seeking out wines that overdeliver, both on cost and quality. This has been the main driver for our wine collection over the years, introducing you, our customers, to new and exciting wines that are off the beaten path. For this reason, we consistently turned to Austria-where the aromatic, powerfully structured white and rosé wines, and elegant, refined red wines offer you something entirely unique.
And while certain grape varieties may seem difficult to pronounce or rather unfamiliar, like Sankt Laurent, Zweigelt, or Grüner Veltliner, we’ll be breaking them down for you over the next few months, guiding your journey through our wine shelves at Time Market.
Now let’s turn our attention to Austria- home to Mozart, Sigmund Freud, and Gustav Klimt. Over the past few decades, Austria has consistently demonstrated that it is a dominant player in the world wine scene, both in terms of quality and export. Since the 1990's, wine professionals, wine writers, sommeliers, and those in the trade, have turned to Austria for high quality, age worthy white wines, particularly with varieties like Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir.
Throughout May and June, we’ll be highlighting the unique aspects of these regions in upcoming blog posts, on a quest to explore how climate, culture, history and terroir have impacted Austrian viticulture over the centuries, while showcasing the versatile range of wines available here at Time Market.
In the 12th century A.D, varieties like Riesling and Pinot Noir were introduced to the area by Cistercian monks, who recognized the climatic similarities to Clos de Vougeot, in Burgundy. Ever since their fateful arrival, Austria has championed these French grape varieties, and the wines are celebrating enormous success on the world stage.
Demonstrating the impact of religion and wine in Austria, some successful Austrian wineries, like that of Stift Klosterneuberg and Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg date back to the 12th century, and are still operating today as Roman Catholic institutions.
Austria's capital, Vienna (Wien) actually takes its name from its citizens, who were the major consumers of wine (translation: wein) for hundreds of years. Interestingly, Vienna is one of the last remaining major European capitals that boasts vineyards, mainly planted in the northwestern edge of the city.
As you navigate through wine country, the Heuriger, or family-run inns, are cozy, welcoming venues that serve local wines and homemade cuisine, forming the bedrock for Austria's wine culture. These are not fancy, Michelin star restaurants, but rather low-key, inviting establishments that are typically open a few months out of the year.
Grapes passing on the sorting table
Over the years, winemaking methods, vineyard mechanization techniques, and cellar technologies have vastly improved, leading to an explosion of ambitious, minimal intervention producers who have the awe-inspiring ability to craft magnificent juice.
The real takeaway with Austrian wine is its versatility, transitioning seamlessly from one meal to the next. Spanning from traditional method, hand-riddled Sekt and angular, mineral driven whites, to spicy, earthy reds, and even to lusciously sweet, botrytis dessert wines, Austrian wine has never been a stranger to our wine shelves at Time Market.
Riesling on the vine
If you’re in the neighborhood, pop by our bar at Time Market. We’ll be pouring refreshing summer-ready Austrian wines by the glass throughout the months of May and June.
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